Exercise: Costume Design

For this exercise, I will be exploring historical costumes and imagining how it could be seen in the future. I will decide which historical period to choose for fashion and imagine what it would look like 100 years in the future; I need to figure out what would change the design based on the changes that would happen around us over time.

Research

Ruth E. Carter

Ruth E. Carter is well-known for her storytelling through her iconic fashion creations and showcases Black culture with life and spirit. She has worked on many great titles such as School Daze, Do the Right Thing, Selma, Malcom X and Black Panther to name a few; throughout those movies she made sure that her work was well-researched and true to the culture or period at that time, even the small details such as a neck roll was applied to her designs to make it true to the figures in a non-fictional setting. 1

Carter has won many accolades throughout the years of her work, her attention to detail plays a lot in her decision-making when it came to figuring out what her designs would look like, even in a fictional setting of Wakanda which is set in Africa, she ensured that every place of Africa was represented through the designs of the Black Panther movie. For example, she applied stitch-work into certain designs to create the illusion of scarification, and also incorporated a common symbol of the triangle into most designs as it is an important symbol in Africa that represents the mother, father and child. 2

Looking at her career, I can see that her success boils down to being open to information, accepting collaborations from many and understanding your limits. Carter thoroughly researches on every project she is a part of and it pays off extremely well, whether its subtle details or bold colours and shapes.

Where to next...

After researching Ruth E Carter, I wanted to pick an area of history or culture that i knew well and that I could research thoroughly just like I did.

I decided to pick the Georgian Era in British Fashion-- or European Fashion since they both went through the same influences. By my research, the dresses worn had a corset (or a boned corset), a set of pannier and pockets, a petticoat which ties in at the front and back, a stomacher (which were pinned at the front) with a gown with fitted lining that was also pinned on. 3

Applying this knowledge for creating something set 100 years into the future, I imagine that the environment is much hotter and and there is lots of sand storms and such-- that the millionaires have ruined the planet. So, I wanted to see how people stayed cool in those times, the fabrics were very breathable, linen and cotton-- so staying away from the silks that would be used, preferably in the winter; they would also have a folding fan to keep them cool. 4

Therefore when it comes to creating the design, I think I would love to incorporate the corset, the stomacher (which is like a clip on pattern), and maybe a petticoat with the use of linen. Keeping it colourful and light with gorgeous ruffles.

Sketches and Colour Thumbnails

Process

I started out by using pencil to lightly sketch then applied watercolour sticking to a light yellow colour theme.

Final Design

Evaluation

For this exercise I had to create a costume that is inspired by a historical era or cultural place, but imagined in 100 years time. I choose the Georgian Era and imagined the world as a hot and dusty environment.

I created loose sleeve and trousers legs to create a nice airflow but using the flowy-ness of the original dress; I used a corset style top with the stomacher at the front with intricate designs since that was something that really drew me to that era. I decided to create a face mask since I can imagine it getting very dusty since everything would dry out, and I imagined some cute little design on there too. One thing I found really interesting is the pockets that they used to have and it was under the petticoat, I thought it would be a cool adaption would be to have it over everything-- giving the attire volume but practical and cool in temperature.

I liked using watercolours for this, it created a nice light look and I'm quite happy with how the design turned out-- it's fun and the shapes really compliment each other too. By researching I was able to adapt my design and pick and choose elements that I thought would best fit for what I thought 100 years in the future would look like.

However, I think that maybe I didn't apply enough technology into my design for it to be considered as apply the future to the past.

Redesigns

I tried recreating the previous design but in tech-form, using boxy shapes and wires to create volume, however, it just looks very disappointing and uninteresting. I made sure to apply hinges to where their is movement in the arms, and the bottom half is made up with wires that attach at the hip and travel up the body-- then to her head. I suppose it could be used if it was in a sci-fi setting...

For this design I removed the pockets, made the design less flowy and created some lines to indicate wires and tech-wear on the side of her face and on her mask (and gloves). I kept the design very simple and I drew on inspiration of both the Georgian Era and also the 1940s, the 1940s had cloth/material shortages and I could imagine that happening in the future because of our overconsumption and waste (relying on what we have than making new clothes).

Reflection

I really struggled with this exercise, I think I expected way too much of myself to do a good job and I wasn't able to achieve a compelling design-- I'm very disappointed in myself on this exercise, and I might revisit this task. I much prefer the first initial design, however there isn't any indication that it could be 100 years from now.

Reworking after tutor feedback

I wanted to push myself further with the advice of my tutor, the designs were good but lacked intrigue and blend between Georgian era clothing with a futuristic twist.

Reflection

Even though, not much as added, adjusted or changed, I much prefer the redesign. It looks more natural; it takes ideas from the Georgian period with the "air tanks" at the hips and the flowy dress-- I wanted to give the appearance of a corset with technology, giving the air tanks a place to go to and from. I also added a screen to show heart rate and such to give it the futuristic touch.

By reworking the design I was able to create a good costume design with the skills I've improved on, it helped that I kept lots of references up of the topics I had chosen, as well as practicing life drawing.

1 G D Lewis, Bloomsbury Fashion Central 'Ruth E. Carter', U/A. https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/film-and-television-costume-ruth-e-carter Accessed Apr 16, 2025.

2 Vanity Fair, YouTube 'Black Panther's Costume Designer Ruth E. Carter Breaks Down Her Iconic Costumes | Vanity Fair', 22 Dec, 2020. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmvBrpkgBF0 Accessed Apr 16, 2025.

3 English Heritage, YouTube 'Fashion Through History: Episode 2 - Georgians', Mar 7, 2023. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDMrpUZO5pA&t=18s Accessed Apr 16, 2025.

4 U/A, Fairfax House 'Follow our Top 5 tips to keep cool in this warm weather – 18th century style!', u/a. https://www.fairfaxhouse.co.uk/news/coping-with-the-summer-sun-in-the-georgian-era/ Accessed Apr 16, 2025.